Digging
up historical reminiscences is often better work than trying to write them, for
then we get recollections of others. In the year 1883, when Frederick W.
Fearman had rounded out fifty years’ residence in Hamilton, his wrote a very
interesting story of events, dating back to the year 18-2. These will be
interesting reading, not only to the old stagers but to the younger
generations. It proceeds as follows :
“Fifty years ago this
month in 1833, our family came from Norfolk, England in the New Post packet
ship Ontario. We were on the ocean six weeks, and two weeks on the Erie canal
to Oswego. Then we took passage on a schooner to Port Dalhousie, and from
thence to Hamilton in royal style on a farmer’s hayrack. Hamilton was but a
small place then. There were but three brick houses in it, and the bush came to
the corner of Wellington and King. Wellington street was called Lover’s Lane.
It was beautifully shaded with forest trees at that time, and for some years after.
Mr. Peter Hamilton’s fields reached down John street close to the wood market,
and the boys used to have grand times gathering hickory nuts. His residence was
on the spot where Mr. W. Hendrie now lives, and the farm gate was on Main
street. At Dundurn, the woods commenced again, and there was a crooked, narrow
sandy road to the old bridge. Splendid duck shooting was to be had at the
heights; black duck, mallard, teal and now and then a canvasback. Redheads and
coweens were not carried home in those days. Thousands of wild pigeons also
would fly over this place, as they would come up to the high ground from over
the lake and bay, they could be knocked down by sticks or shot by the hundreds.
This bird seems to have left this part of the country altogether now.
“On the southeast
side of the city, there were but very few houses south of Main street. The old
Springer homestead was located near thecorner of Hunter and Spring streets, and
in the fall, in cider-making time, it was the spot where the boys most did
congregate, and good long straws were in requisition. The lakeside was, in
summer, a busy place then, as the wharves were building, and there were a good
many hotels down there. Some of them have disappeared. The old hospital is one
of them., and the Burlington glass works is another, and the roughcast building
on the corner of Macnab and Burlington streets another, but the glory of that
locality has departed. The opening of the Great Western railway changed the
travel and traffic to other parts of the city. Hamilton was noted for its dust
and dirt. On a windy day, it was almost unbearable.The clouds of dust would
sweep down York and King and Main streets so as to put a stop to business and
all trades suffered very much from this cause. It was after one of those days
that I wrote a petition to the mayor to call a meeting to take into
consideration what was the best plan to provide water for the city. The meeting
was held. John Fisher, mayor, was chairman, myself secretary, and from that meeting sprang our waterworks,
which have been such vast benefit to the community.
“The Gore was a very
Sahara – dust, sand and mud the most of the year. I have seen this spot nearly
filled with long, white-covered emigrant wagons, on their way from the eastern
states to the then far west of Illinois, Western Ohio and Indiana. They would
come there for the night with their cattle and horses, sleep in the wagons or
prairie schooners, as we used to call them, and at break of day, they were
gone. Next evening, another lot would be resting there. What has been the
result of this immigration? Look at the cities, towns and farms of these states
today. I was told then that the farm was sold to the first man on it for one
dollar an acre, and if not taken up the first year, after survey, then 75
cents, next 50 cents, and if not taken up them, they were called swamp lands,
and sold to anyone who would give 25 cents an acre for them. But the first sale
was to actual settlers only. It is evident that the railway scoops, temperance
society society grabs, and ministerial boomers had not then come into
existence, as almost all the tillable land of those states was taken up by
actual settlers. I remember the day of the Queen’s coronation. It was the first
celebration of the kind held here, and a jolly time we had – bonfires and
fireworks of a primitive kind. I don’t think we had any firecrackers. Anyway, the boys were better than they are now, and
wouldn’t use if they had. There were some hotels of note. The old Promenade
house was the principal one. It stood where the Bank of British North America
stands now. It was the stage house. The arrival and departure of the stage was
quite an event, and caused a great stir, as it was the most rapid and stylish
mode of travel. This house was also the resort of commercial men, and the host
(Burly) was well known by all travelers. The Cambria house was kept by a Mr.
Cattermode, who was also an emigrant agent, whose books were very severely
commented upon, as he, like those of that ilk of the day, was apt to draw the
long bow. The house was situated at the corner of John and Main streets, and
was principally patronized by old country emigrants of the better sort, and it
was celebrated as a place where they got rid of a good deal of money and a good
deal of whiskey which could be had pure at 16 cents a gallon. There was also
another hotel on the spot where Wanzer’s factory is now, kept by Mr. Chatfield,
and it was noted as the house where all the big bugs were put up, and at that
time we stayed our first night in Hamilton. It was found on that occasion that
individuals did reside at this establishment, and they nearly ate us up, and
the reputation was a correct one.
“There is now but one
building on the Gore that was there then – I mean D. Moore Co.’s on King street
east. The buildings in this section were all of one or two stories, of wood. I
do not know of but two men who are in business now who were doing business
then, and they are John Winer and Dennis Moore. All have passed away, and I now
find more names of acquaintances in our city than I can in the city. Such is
life.
“Times were hard soon
after this. In ’34, ’35 and ’36, business was bad; no money, prices were low.
All trade and truck; no cash for anything. The storekeepers used to print their
own shinplasters, and each run a bank of his own. He was president, and board
of directors both, until the government put a stop to it. Wages were very low.
Laboring men, 50 cents to 75 cents per day, or less. Mechanics, not much more,
paid in truck. Produce was very cheap. Butter 7 to 9 cents; eggs, 5 cents;
whitefish 3 to 4 large ones for a quarter; potatoes 15 cents a bushel, wood $1
to $2 a cord, meats, grains and flour equally low, but still hard to get, as
there was no trade, business or money. General discontent prevailed, and the
Rebellions of ’37 took place. The Family Compact were wiped out; responsible
government became a fact, and the country prospered.
“Some years after
this, the Indians surrended the townships of Seneca and Oneida, and they were
surveyed and sold to actual settlers at $4 and $5 an acre. The lands were taken
up at once, and many of the lands were paid for by half the pine timber on
them. I helped survey this land under Mr. Kirkpatrick, P.L.S. I mention this to
show the extraordinary rise in the value of timber since then. These fine large
pines were often sold at from $1 to $2 apiece. Mr. Bradley, of the city,
informs me that he pays from $80 to $1000 for each of them. There was plenty of
very fine walnut , also cut into lumber at $15 and $20 a thousand, which is now
worth $100 for the same quantity, and none to be had in this locality. These
lands are now worth from $50 to $80 an acre.
“The churches were few and far between. Old King street Methodist was in use, although I have seen it full of sheep since then. It was afterwards repaired and used for divine service. There were no Episcopal, Presbyterian, or Catholic churches here. Rev. Mr. Geddes used the court house. As to schools, I first went to a school called ‘Miss Sewell’s Select Ladies’ Establishment’, where a few lads were admitted. It was kept on the corner of King and Walnut streets. I think the name is on it still, and the building has not had a coat of paint since then. A Mr. Randall also had a large school in the old Cambria house on John street, lately pulled down by Mr. Hoodless. Mr. Randall was a club-footed man, but could throw a ruler straighter than a shot. Most of the teachers then were men who were unable to make a living in any other way. I often think of them in comparison with the twelve schools, the 116 teachers and 6,000 scholars of Hamilton today. I give you a few extracts from the early public school records of a later date : ‘The earliest data of the public schools in this city go back to 1847 – a period of 36 years. At that time,
the city was divided
into six sections each of which there was one schoolhouse, containing one
school room, presided over by one school teacher. One of those schools is
described as good, four as midling, and one as inferior. Two were 18 by 20
feet, and two 22 by 24 feet.The houses were all frame buildings, four in
ordinary repair, two in bad repair. All were suitably provided with desks and
seats, according to the idea of the time, four had special arrangements for
ventilation, not one had a playground. Of these six school buildings, only one
was owned by the board, the others were rented. There were no fewer than 28
private schools in Hamilton; today there are not two worthy of the name.
Central opened in 1853, preparations occupied three years.’
“I do not remember by
one wholesale house. This was Colin C. Ferrie and company’s, a large, white
clapboard structure on the corner of King and Hughson, where the Bank of
Commerce is situated. They did quite a large business. The manufacturers were
slim. There was a Mr. Harris’ gun maker, where Myles’ coal office stands, and
he would perhaps turn out a gun or rifle a month, but they were noted as good
articles. There was also a man, on the corner of John and Jackson streets,
known for making good augers, and I guess he could turn out a dozen or so in
the year. There were no railways. The
first railroad
meeting was held on the wood market, on John street, and an ox was roasted, or
rather warmed, as when it was cut up was as raw as an east wind, and used as a
baseball now; the catchers, however, coming off the worst. Long since then I
have been 24 hours on the road between the Falls and here, and travel all the
time, and twelve to fourteen hours between here and Toronto. I think that the
first steamer we had was the John By, a small craft that was afterwards wrecked
on Marygold Point, across the lake. When she came in at Land’s wharf, where the
H. & N. W. elevators is now, there was quite a commotion.
“Now all this is
changed. We live in the best age the world ever saw. An age of steam railways,
telegraphs, telephones, quick transit and passage, low postage and a greater
share of comforts to the whole people; less political wrangles and greater
catholicity of spirit amongst the different denominations of the land :
churches and schools everywhere, and a regard for the Sabbath that is
observable by everybody. Our merchants and manufacturers, with equal railway
facilities, ask odds from no one. They are princes in their calling, and their
motto is, as it always has been, ‘I advance.’ I consider Hamilton to be the
most pleasantly and favorably situated city in Canada. Its location at the
brink of the lake and bay is beautiful. It is now clean and well-provided with
water, and there are as fine buildings, residences, churches and public offices
as are to be found anywhere, and also thousands of houses that are principally
owned by the people who live in them – built out of their earnings since they
came here. Most of the streets are well-planted with shade trees and well-dranied.
The soil is excellent. All varieties of fruit and vegetables suitable to this
climate are grown here and vicinity to perfection, as our market will
demonstrate. I joined with a few of the people on Park street in planting the
first street with shade trees and now almost all the private streets are
planted with them. We have copied a good deal in the matter from the States,
and we have considerable to learn. The habit of throwing old boots, stovepipes,
etc.into the street will have to be got rid, many of the ugly high fences taken
away, and the old leaves from trees swept up tidily, good asphalt sidewalks provided,
and the streets kept in better repair, and last and most important of all, two
or more good parks set apart and made free to the people before we can be
called a first-class city. I hope to see this done. We had once the opportunity
to purchase Dundurn for less than $25,000. It was prevented by a few who would
oppose any improvement, and though we could have been greatly benefitted by the
purchase, the opportunity was lost, and now we must do the next best thing.”
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It is like looking
backward into some other world to read Mr. Fearman’s letter, written
thirty-three years ago, of incidents occupying in Hamilton away back in 1833.
Probably no man in his day knew more about Hamilton than did Mr. Fearman. For
long years, he was connected with its business and social interests, and he
organized a business, now conducted by his sons, that was not only profitable
to himself, but of great value to producers on the farm and to city consumers.
Such a letter should not be lost or forgotten in the future history of
Hamilton, and therefore we gave it a place in the Saturday Musings.
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